At Atera, Winnimere Butter and More

Raw Milk Ice Cream Sponge

At Atera, an intimate Manhattan restaurant featuring foraged lichen and pickled quail eggs, dairy is being reimagined. Have you ever heard of anyone soaking cheese rinds in a vat of cream before churning it into butter? That’s what Chef Matt Lightner does to make his exquisite Winnimere butter, the most sensual dairy experience of my […]


This week I’ve been doing a lot of research on Manchego, that ubiquitous Spanish cheese that appears in coolers everywhere with its bone face and herringbone-like rind. It always makes me think of a stoic in a suit. I’ve pegged it as a waxy, not very interesting cheese. Then I met Kidchego. As you might […]

A 5-Day Food Writing Workshop

Readers and writers, just a heads up: I’ll be teaching an abbreviated version of my university-level Food Writing class at the Chesapeake Bay Writers’ Conference in Maryland this summer. Please consider joining me if you want to exercise your palate and pen. During the five days (July 11-15), we’ll meet daily to focus on writing […]

Cheddar’s Little Namesake

Some cheesemongers I know express their lacto love through tattooes. Others name their children after cheeses. If you’ve ever nibbled Montgomery’s Cheddar, a rugged nugget made by Jamie Montgomery of Somerset, England, you might understand why Hunter Fike named his firstborn “James Montgomery,” after the maker. Hunter Fike, who runs the Italian Market Di Bruno […]

Goat Cheeses of the Moment

I know what you’re thinking. When is Her Ladyship going to get back to the subject of cheese? I know, I know. I’ve gotten a little distracted by camels and classes, and it really is high time I sat down and provided some real dairy direction like the courtesan I promised I would be. Please […]