Provolone Five Ways

January friends, the days are full of gray light. Chez Madame Fromage, I have been writing from dawn to dusk on a new project, finding solace in Provolone. Today, as I cut myself a slice and fished some Castelvetrano olives out of a jar, I fell into a little reverie. This Provolone was cracked open back in October. […]

When In Ragusa, Eat Ragusano

If Sicily has a cheese capital, it must be Ragusa, a baroque town on the southeastern part of the island. Here, my cheese lover, you may experience a thousand diversions, from visiting the beautiful Dipasquale’s Casa del Formaggio (cheese shop) in the heart of town to booking a cheese tasting at CoRFiLaC, a research center devoted to […]

Tasting the Cheeses of Sicily

For the cheese-curious traveler in Sicily (or Italy, for that matter), there are several useful books to read in advance: Slow Food’s Italian Cheese and Italy Dish by Dish. Before I left the States, I scoured them both and spent an evening at my kitchen table making a list in my journal of all the divine […]

The Baked Ricotta of Mirto

Before my Sicilian cheese trek began, I saw images of  “Ricotta Infornata” — sheep’s milk ricotta pressed into forms and baked to a dark chocolate-brown color. Naturally, I was curious to find a source. My co-conspirators, Marriane and Cindi, helped me suss out the small town of Mirto in the Nebrodie Mountains which is home […]

The Cooking School at Gangivecchio

The drive to Gangivecchio is golden. The mountain roads are edged in wheat. Bursts of turmeric-colored bushes surprise us as we make our ascent by car. Even the light falling across distant hilltops appears honey-colored. It’s no wonder that some of the best caciocavallo we’ve tasted is served here, at a small inn and cooking […]