Tasting the Cheeses of Sicily

Photo by David Kessler

For the cheese-curious traveler in Sicily (or Italy, for that matter), there are several useful books to read in advance: Slow Food’s Italian Cheese and Italy Dish by Dish. Before I left the States, I scoured them both and spent an evening at my kitchen table making a list in my journal of all the divine […]

The Baked Ricotta of Mirto

Ricotta Infornata from La Paisanella in Sicily

Before my Sicilian cheese trek began, I saw images of  “Ricotta Infornata” — sheep’s milk ricotta pressed into forms and baked to a dark chocolate-brown color. Naturally, I was curious to find a source. My co-conspirators, Marriane and Cindi, helped me suss out the small town of Mirto in the Nebrodie Mountains which is home […]

The Cooking School at Gangivecchio

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The drive to Gangivecchio is golden. The mountain roads are edged in wheat. Bursts of turmeric-colored bushes surprise us as we make our ascent by car. Even the light falling across distant hilltops appears honey-colored. It’s no wonder that some of the best caciocavallo we’ve tasted is served here, at a small inn and cooking […]

Sicily: First Impressions

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I came to Sicily to eat cheese from morning to night. So far, that has not been difficult. We arrived at dawn, the mountains washed in apricot light. The terrain I saw around me as I stepped out of the plane looked rugged and time-worn, the mountains smooth as if shaped by butter knives. In […]

To Sicily, In Search of Tuma Persa

Tuma Persa Cocktail

Readers, you know that there are few things I enjoy more than a cheese odyssey. Today I leave for Sicily to begin a dairy adventure with a pair of artists, Marianne Bernstein and Cindi Ettinger, who are obsessed with volcanic islands. The project, Due South, is Marianne’s second in a series of location-based collaborations designed to spark […]