Breakfast Bowl with Cultured Butter, Bee Pollen, and Apple

For the New Year, I resolved to eat more good butter. Cultured butter! Have you ever tried it? It’s made from cream that has been fermented, similar to the way that yogurt is fermented. The process, which is as simple as pouring a little buttermilk into a pot of cream and letting it cure overnight, encourages flavors to develop in […]

My Love Affair with Goat Cheeses of France

Purrrr. That was my first response when a box of French goat cheeses arrived on my rowhouse stoop in Philadelphia. A pair of them, like a bride and groom. Soft, delicate. The scent of the French countryside still detectable on their rinds. Yes, this post is going to get romantic. If you’re eating lunch at […]

Not Just Another Gouda

A few weeks ago, I got an email from my cheesemonger friend, Hunter, that began like this: Have you had Remeker Pure Yet? If not, you should stop whatever you are doing…. Hunter Fike is the cheesemonger who wrote the “Cheesemonger Notes” in my cheese book, so when he tells me to stop the world […]

Viva Vermont

This week, it’s been back to work for Madame F. — I teach creative writing when I’m not living the cheese lifestyle. Of course, the cheese lifestyle always comes with me, in wedges and parcels. And this week I kept the summer alive by snacking on a stash of delicacies culled from my July junket […]

At Atera, Winnimere Butter and More

Raw Milk Ice Cream Sponge

At Atera, an intimate Manhattan restaurant featuring foraged lichen and pickled quail eggs, dairy is being reimagined. Have you ever heard of anyone soaking cheese rinds in a vat of cream before churning it into butter? That’s what Chef Matt Lightner does to make his exquisite Winnimere butter, the most sensual dairy experience of my […]